Smíchovský Alpine Festival 2009

Some exciting news: I've been invited by the Czech Republic to give a presentation at the Smíchovský Alpine Festival in Prague later this month. Other speakers include mountaineering greats Reinhold Messner and Boris Lorenčič as well as a host of other international alpinists. The festival runs the weekend of the November 20-22, and I'll be showing at 6:45 p.m. on Saturday night. Check out the Smíchovský Festival Alpinismu website for more details.

Desert Towers!

This fall I took another road trip to the desert southwest to climb more towers. This time it was 24 towers in 20 days. Another great tower session!


Check out the trip report on the SuperTopo website: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1002231/TR_Desert_Towers_Rule

First Peak Ascent, Jobo Rinjang (6,778 meters), Khumbu Himal, Nepal

It is with great happiness that David and I report the first ascent of Jobo Rinjang (6,778 meters) via the direct south face, in the Khumbu Region of Nepal, climbing alpine style over 6 days (from April 20 to April 25), summiting on April 22nd.  Please visit our Climb Nepal blog for a full account: www.climbnepal.blogspot.com.

Approaching the Lunag Massif, with Jobo Rinjang in the front:

David climbing up the lower slopes:

On the summit:

The American Alpine Club Spitzer Cutting Edge Award

It is with great excitement and appreciation that I would like to announce our receiving of the 2009 Spitzer Cutting Edge Award from the American Alpine Club for our climb on Jobo Rinjang. The award has been created to back American expeditions to the toughest alpine objectives in the world. From both David Gottlieb and I - our deepest gratitude goes out to the AAC. Thank you for helping us reach our climbing dreams!

2009 Kilimanjaro Climb

On February 13th, Lakpa Rita Sherpa and I successfully summitted Kilimanjaro (5,895 m), Africa's highest point. Lakpa completed his Seven Summits (climbing the highest peak on each continent) with this climb, becoming the first Sherpa to complete this great accomplishment. Lakpa is the main climbing ambassador for Sherpa Adventure Gear, and I was able to climb with Lakpa to photograph and document the trip.

Check out our Climb Africa blog for the complete trip details: www.climbafrica.blogspot.com

Press release about the climb: http://www.pitchengine.com/free-release.php?id=3895

First Peak Ascent, Kang Nachugo (6,735 meters), Rolwaling Himal, Nepal

David Gottlieb and I have had great success on making the first ascent of Kang Nachugo (6,735 meters) in the Rolwaling Himal of Nepal. We made the ascent over 5 days, summitting on October 17. Please visit Climb Nepal blog for a full account: http://climbnepal.blogspot.com/
The climb was considered as one of 57 "Ascensions de l'Année" or "Ascents of the Year", by the Les Piolets d'Or 2009.

An overview of our routes on Kang Nachugo:

Walking the tightrope between Nepal and Tibet on the West Ridge of Kang Nagchugo:

David climbing snow flutings on the ascent to the ridge crest:

David Gottlieb on the summit of Kang Nachugo:

32 Towers in the Desert Southwest

This spring I was able to make a really fun desert Southwest tour. I visited Colorado, Utah, Arizona, and Nevada. During the trip I climbed 32 desert towers and a half dozen other routes. Check out the full trip report on the SuperTopo website:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=584543

Enjoy!

First Peak Ascent, Peak 5,965 meters, Shaluli Shan Mountains, Kham, Tibet

Peter Inglis and I have made the first ascent of Peak  5,965 meters near Mt. Genyen, in the Shaluli Shan Mountians of the Tibetan region of Kham.  We made the ascent alpine style over 4 days, summiting on October 22, 2007.  For a complete account of our climb, check out my Climb China blog at www.climbchina.blogspot.com.

Peak 5965 from the south:


Peter in the initial couloir:


Joe on the summit:

First Peak Ascent - Lara Shan - Qionglai Mountains, China

Backed by the American Alpine Club’s McNeill/Nott Award, Chad Kellogg and I were to make our second attempt on Mt.Siguniang (6,250 meters) this spring, the centerpiece of climbing in the Qionglai Shan. A family emergency kept us from attaining our ultimate goal. Chad’s wife Lara died tragically in the during our expedition. Chad immediately departed, hence our trip came to an untimely end.  However, we were able to make the first peak ascent of an unclimbed 5,700-meter peak that we called Lara Shan.  Jay Janousek joined us for the ascent, which we made alpine style over 5 days, summiting on April 18, 2007.

For a complete account of our climb, please visit my Climb China blog at www.climbchina.blogspot.com.

Lara Shan (left) and Mt. Siguniang (right):


Our route on the headwall portion of Lara Shan:

Joe on the summit:

2007 McNeill-Nott Award

I am very excited to learn that I received the first ever McNeill-Nott Award from the American Alpine Club. The intended route was a new line on 20,505-foot Mt. Siguniang in Sichuan, China. Check out the trip report here. Also, for more information on the McNeill-Nott Award, check out the American Alpine Club website.

Alaska Climbing Guidebook

Alaska Climbing by Joseph Puryear

All the hard work has finally paid off. Here it is - a select full-color guide to 30 of the best climbing routes in the Central Alaska Range. Tons of information, history, and beta on climbing in North America's premier alpine-climbing destination. Includes 150 color photos from around the range, many with route overlays. Check out the latest in climbing topo design using color and intimate detail to differentiate snow, ice, rock, and mixed terrain in an easy to read format. Click here for more info and to read the great reviews!

Get your personally signed copy today!

Praise for Alaska Climbing:

"In its careful selection of routes, in depth detail and clear and precise advice Joe Puryear’s effort sets a new bar for Mountaineering guidebooks."
- Ian Parnell, Planet Fear, Read the full review

"This guide is the first book to give really good details on the classic routes and just became essential reading for anyone planning a trip to the US’s most Northerly State."
- Andy Saxby, UKClimbing.com, Read the full review

"If the Alaska Range is on your list, this is your guide! Puryear's vast experience backed with SuperTopo lead the way."
- Mike Gauthier, Author, Mount Rainier, a climbing guide

"Don't leave home without it! Joe pulled together the legendary classic routes and put them all in one easy to read book. It's my new tick list for the Alaska Range.”
-Jared Ogden, Top Alpinist

“Rarely do guidebooks offer such extensive first-hand knowledge. Joe’s expertise clearly shows in the detailed route descriptions, photos and topos as well as the general information and strategies for climbing in North America’s alpine mecca.”
- Kelly Cordes, Senior Editor, American Alpine Journal

"The SuperTopo guidebook you are holding will motivate you and help select a climb. Use it as a tool to inspire and plan... May the following pages allow you to unleash your inner quest for adventure."
-from the foreword by Conrad Anker

Whether looking to climb Denali’s West Buttress or scale a wall in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska Climbing is the book to take you there. Author Joseph Puryear’s result of 15 years of Alaska Range climbing and research is the most detailed information ever for the region’s best climbs. Included are routes for all abilities from moderate snow climbs to the difficult testpieces of the range. Each climb gets detailed photo-diagrams, in-depth strategy, camping info, retreat beta, and first ascent history. Detailed color topos and maps bring these climbs to life.

● Complete route profiles for 30 mega-classic snow, ice, mixed, and rock climbs
● First ever published topos for many climbs including Mt. Foraker’s Infinite Spur, Mt. Huntington’s Harvard Route, and Peak 11,300
● Inside knowledge on how to travel in Alaska, where to stay, and what to bring
● Critical information on how to stay alive in the Alaska Range
● Over 150 recent color photos from the area’s top mountaineering photographers
● Suggestions for other area climbs and proposals for new climbs

Check my website for purchasing info and to get a personally signed copy:
www.cascadeimages.com

Also check out SuperTopo for a bunch for info about the book and Alaska:
www.supertopo.com

Two First Peak Ascents - Mt. Daugou and The Angry Wife, Qionglai Mountains, China

In 2005 I was on a very successful expedition to the Qionglai Mountains of Western Sichuan, China where we made the first ascent of two unclimbed rock spires in the region.
More info can be found on MountEverest.net.

The Angry Wife (5,020 meters), Raindog Arête (5.10c, 550 meters)
First Ascent: October 11, 2005 - Chad Kellogg, Joe Puryear, Stoney Richards


Mt. Daugou (5,465 meters), Salvage Op. (5.10d, 650 meters)
First Ascent: October 13, 2005 - Chad Kellogg, Joe Puryear, Stoney Richards

First Ascent - Kichatna Spire, The Black Crystal Arête

Chad Kellogg and I spent a few weeks in the remote Kichatna Mountains of the Alaska Range. We managed to climb Kichatna Spire by a new route. This was the eighth ascent of the mountain by its seventh route to the summit. The Black Crystal Arête (VI, 5.10 A2) is the first route to tackle the peak’s southern aspect by climbing the slender ridge that splits its south and east faces.

For a full account of the climb, please visit my Alaska Climbing Blog: www.alaskaclimbing.blogspot.com.

Kichatna Spire from the Shadows Glacier:


Aerial view of Kichatna Spire from the south:


Climbing up the east wall:

Chad leading the key horizontal traverse high on the route:


On the summit looking northwest:

First Ascent - Goldfinger, The Stump, Ruth Gorge, Alaska Range

After climbing The Cobra Pillar, The Southwest Face of Hut Tower, and the West Pillar of the Eye Tooth, Chris and I were ready to get on a new route. We found that the rock in the basin of the Eye Tooth, Wisdom Tooth, and the Stump was exceptionally good. After two tries we put together the route Goldfinger (IV, 5.11, 12 pitches), which takes a direct line up the left of two major dihedrals splitting the face. The climb was challenging and sustained with splitter cracks and good protection.

For a full account of the climb, please visit my Alaska Climbing Blog: www.alaskaclimbing.blogspot.com.

Looking up the route from the base:


Splitter cracks everywhere...


The crux of the route came on the 9th pitch. A very thin finger crack led to a dyno to an off-width, then an airy traverse left to a horizontal roof crack. Chris cruised the pitch onsight!

The Cobra Pillar - first one day - speed ascent, Mt. Barrill, Alaska Range

In mid-June, Chris McNamara and I traveled to the Ruth Gorge in the Alaska Range, where we climbed the 2,700-foot Cobra Pillar on Mt. Barrill (VI, 5.11, C1, 23 pitches). After much work and many tries, the first ascent of this route was made by Jim Donini and Jack Tackle over 6-days in June of 1991. Two subsequent ascent were made in 3 and 2 days. Our goal was to make the 4th ascent and do it in a single-push, using Yosemite-style speed tactics. Leaving the ground at 3 p.m. on June 13 with one 60-meter rope, a double set of cams, one wall hammer/ice pick each, and no crampons, we made the ascent in 15 hours and 10 minutes, summitting the next morning just after 6 a.m.

For a full account of the climb, please visit my Alaska Climbing Blog: www.alaskaclimbing.blogspot.com.

The east face of Mt. Barrill, showing the line of the Cobra Pillar:


Chris leading the 10th pitch, which is a dead horizontal 100-foot right traverse to reach the splitter headwall cracks on the huge shield mid-route.


Chris leading the splitter 5.10 finger crack on pitch 12.